Amarnath Yatra

The Amarnathji Yatra

The Spiritual Journey

“The Himalayan pilgrimages are the oldest organised travel system, evolved over time by Hindu sages and embodying the spirit of wander, adventure and spirituality.”

Shiva, in the form of a lingam, is formed naturally of an ice stalagmite. One of the holy trinity, Shiva is a living god. The most ancient and sacred book of India, the Rig Veda, evokes his presence in its hymns. Vedic myths, rituals, and even astronomy testify to his existence from the dawn of time.

Shiva is known to have made his home in the Himalayas. He built no house nor shelter, not for himself or his bride. He was an ascetic, and yet married; he could be both for “he was the wild god sporting in the forest or taking his ease on a cloud.”

Legend has it that Shiva recounted to Parvati the secret of creation in the Amarnathji cave. Unknown to them, a pair of mating pigeons eavesdropped on this conversation and having learned the secret, are reborn again and again, and have made the cave their eternal abode. Many pilgrims report seeing the pigeons-pair when they trek the arduous route to pay obeisance before the ice-lingam (the phallic symbol of Shiva).

The Trek to Amarnathji

The trek to Amarnathji, in the month of Shravan (July – August), has the devout flocking to this incredible shrine, where the image of Shiva, in the form of a lingam, is formed naturally of an ice-stalagmite, and which waxes and wanes with the moon. By its side are, fascinatingly, two more ice-lingams, that of Parvati and their son, Ganesha.

According to an ancient tale, there was once a Muslim shepherd named Buta Malik who was given a sack of coal by a sadhu. Upon reaching home, he discovered that the sack, in fact, contained gold. Overjoyed and overcome, Buta Malik rushed back to look for the sadhu and thank him, but on the spot of their meeting discovered a cave, which eventually became a place of pilgrimage for all believers. To date, a percentage of the donations made by pilgrims are given to the descendants of Malik, and the remaining to the trust which manages the shrine.

Another legend has it that when Kashap Reshi drained the Kashmir valley of water (it was believed to have been a vast lake), the cave and the lingam were discovered by Bregish Reshi who was traveling the Himalayas. When people heard of the lingam, Amarnathji became Shiva’s abode and a center of pilgrimage.

The Yatra Procession

Whatever the legends and the history of Amarnathji’s discovery, it is today a very important center of pilgrimage. Though the route is as difficult to negotiate as it is exciting, every year, thousands of devotees come to pay homage before Shiva in one of his famous Himalayan abodes.

Situated in a narrow gorge at the farther end of Lidder valley, Amarnathji stands at 3,888 m and is 45 km from Pahalgam and 141 km from Srinagar. Though the original pilgrimage prescribes that the yatra be undertaken from Srinagar, the more common practice is to begin the journey from Pahalgam and cover the distance to Amarnathji and back in four or five days. Pahalgam is 96 km from Srinagar.

Since the base point for the pilgrim’s trek is picturesque Pahalgam, a large tented township springs up to accommodate the pilgrims. The conduct of the yatra is a gigantic task in which the State Government takes the assistance of the security departments for providing security and helping to keep the route open. All intermediate halting places have the same kind of facilities as are provided at Pahalgam, and a Yatra Officer is appointed to conduct the pilgrimage.

Trek to Amarnathji Cave

A Sacred Journey

“For those who journey with faith, it is a rewarding experience, this simple visitation to a cave-shrine, the home of the Himalayan mendicant who is both destroyer and healer, the greatest of the Hindu Gods.”

The trek from Pahalgam to Amarnathji cave is on an ancient peregrine route. The 45 km distance is covered in four days, with night halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag (Wawjan), and Panchtarni. The distance from Pahalgam to Chandanwari (16 km) is now covered by motor transport. The pilgrims camp here or at Pahalgam on the first night out.

The first day’s trek of 13 km from Chandanwari is through spectacular, primeval countryside. The main center of attraction on this trek is Sheshnag, a mountain lake which derives its name from its seven peaks, resembling the heads of a mythical snake. The journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines up the right bank of a cascading stream and wild scenery untouched by civilization. The second night’s camp at Wawjan overlooks the deep blue water of Sheshnag lake, and glaciers beyond it. The lake is also associated with legends of love and revenge, and at the camp, these are recounted by campfires, to the stillness of a pine-scented, Himalayan night.

The second day’s 12 km trek steadily gains height, winding up across Mahagunas Pass at 4,600 m and then descending to the meadowlands of Panchtarni, the last camp en route to the holy cave.

From Panchtarni to Amarnathji is only 6 km, but an early morning start is recommended for there is a long queue awaiting entrance to the cave. The same day, following darshan, devotees can return to Panchtarni in time for lunch, and continue to Wawjan to spend the fourth night out; or continue further to Zojibal, returning to Pahalgam on the fourth day.

Entrance to the cave is regulated, and darshan is a hasty affair for there are many others waiting outside to pay homage before the awesome Shivalingam. The devotees sing bhajans, chant incantations, and priests perform aarti and puja, invoking the blessing of Shiva, the divine, the pure, the absolute.

Useful Tips on the Yatra

• Organizers: The Yatra is organised by the Jammu & Kashmir Government, in the month of Shravan, and commences mainly from Pahalgam on specified dates. In recent years the route from Baltal has also been opened for pilgrims to approach the holy Cave.
• Dress: Pilgrims are advised to carry sufficient woolens such as sweaters, drawers, woolen trousers, monkey caps, etc. Other items could include windcheaters, raincoats, sleeping bags or blankets, umbrellas, waterproof boots/shoes, walking sticks, torches, etc. Ladies are advised not to go on the trek in saris, instead pants or Salwar suits with drawers should be used.
• Medical Assistance: Medical posts manned by qualified doctors and nursing staff are established en route to cater to the needs of the pilgrims, free of cost. However, pilgrims are advised to carry along any medicines specifically prescribed for them.
• Provisions: Essential rations are available at fair price rates from the specially established Government Depots at Chandanwari, Sheshnag, and Panchtarni. Numerous wayside tea-shops and small restaurants are set up by private parties. However, pilgrims are advised to carry with them biscuits, toffees, tinned food, etc. to cater to their immediate needs. Firewood or gas can be obtained at Chandanwari, Sheshnag (Wawjan), Panchtarni, and near the Cave.
• Insurance: In view of the hazardous nature, pilgrims are advised to insure themselves before proceeding on the Yatra.
• Accommodation: Good tented accommodation with allied facilities is set up during the Yatra period by the J&K TDC as well as private parties. These are provided on the basis of payment of rates fixed by the State authorities. Facilities for booking such accommodation will be available at the base camps.
• Registration: Registration of pilgrims is undertaken about a month ahead of the date fixed for the commencement of Yatra. The dates are generally notified through press advertisements. No Yatri will be allowed to proceed on the journey without a Registration Card.